“πόλλ’ οἶδ’ ἀλώπηξ, ἀλλ’ ἐχῖνος ἓν μέγα”
”A fox knows many things, but a hedgehog knows one big thing.”
The Greek poet Archilochus was certainly thinking of more than hedgehogs and foxes when he wrote his famous aphorism in the 6th century BCE. According to Isaiah Berlin, the 20th century philosopher, the metaphor was obviously meant for people. Some of us, he reasoned, are hedgehogs, who only have one big idea, and others are foxes, able to consider a little bit of everything. Dante, for example, was a hedgehog, while Shakespeare was a fox. But perhaps Archilochus was thinking of something else closer to home. After all, he lived on the Island of Paros, in the middle of the Aegaen sea, a collection of a thousand islands of Hellenic culture, each as different as an individual person. Some are foxes, miniature continents complete with cities and mountains, while others are hedgehogs, excelling in one particular area of island life.
Crete
At the southern end of the Aegaen, forming its border with the Mediterranean, is Crete, the largest of the islands and a true fox. Almost twice the size of the state of Delaware, it’s home to towering mountains, bustling cities, sparkling beaches and a storied history.
A typical Cretan harbor today, with elements dating back to ancient times.
Ancient Greek legends tell of a wondrous kingdom on Crete with wealth and technology far exceeding that of the mainland Athenians. And archaeological excavations have shown many of the legends to be true. Crete was home to one of the earliest and most lavish European civilizations, collapsing around 1200BC for reasons that are still unknown. You can visit the palace of Knossos, just outside the main city of Heraklion, if you’re inclined to formulate your own theory.
Despite the collapse, Crete’s history didn’t stop with the ancient Greeks. The island has been a prize for empires from the Byzantine to the British. I took a fascinating tour of Spinalonga, a ruined fortress and 17th-century Venetian Leper colony on an island just off of the Eastern coast. For the more adventurous travelers, the tour boat stopped midway for a quick and refreshing swim.
You could be perfectly happy spending your whole trip in Heraklion, the capital city and home to the main ferry port and airport. Make sure to budget plenty of time for eating. The restauranteurs are extraordinarily hospitable and you will likely be surprised with an after-dinner dessert or glass of raka liquor.
It’s worth the trip to Crete just to eat, drink and make friends in a bustling taverna
But if you’re ready to explore, it’s easy to rent a car to discover small towns like Eloundia, a seasonal resort town with wonderful restaurants and stunning beaches, or Chania, the Northwestern Port City whose old town dates to Venetian times. Along the way, you’ll find charming small towns, beautiful vineyards and olive groves and abundant opportunities for hiking through gorges, up to waterfalls, and even into the mouth of the cave said to be the birthplace of Zeus himself!
Mykonos
While Crete is the do-everything fox of the Greek Islands, Mykonos is the ultimate hedgehog. From April to October, it is home to the world’s most renowned jet-set party scene. The airport apron fills with private jets whose occupants are whisked to luxury hotels and villas while ferries from Athens disgorge young tourists who plunk down a few Euros for a cot in a hostel. Rich and not-so-rich come together every night in energetic clubs, well supplied with intoxicants of every kind, legal and otherwise.
During the day, revelers who have the energy visit the whitewashed shops and churches in town, while others continue the party on the islands famous beaches. From the 80s to the 00s, Paradise Beach and the Paradise Beach Club was the most famous and storied Gay Beach in Europe, while today the party has moved to down the road to Elia Beach. (Perhaps as a sign of its rise to prominence, Virgin Hotels opened an “Elia Beach Club Resort” in Las Vegas, as well. Imitation is flattery and all that.) Be fairly warned - at Elia Beach, Paradise Beach and several more, clothes are strictly optional.
One of Mykonos’ legendary beaches enjoying enjoying a relaxing early spring
The main beaches in Mykonos are well-served by a bus network, which is a good thing, because drinking and driving, especially on unlit Greek roads, is a deadly combination. If you’d like to explore the quieter northern beaches, it’s quite easy to rent a car in Mykonos town, or a motorbike if you’re comfortable driving one. Don’t bother renting a car for your whole stay - just for the days you want to go out and explore.
Outside of the main season, the island becomes very quiet and calm. Arrive early or late for the season and you’ll have time to greet Petros the Pelican, a descendant of the tame Pelican who greeted First Lady Jaquilene Kennedy on her storied arrival to the island in the 1960s. Although Jackie O’s patronage put Mykonos on the international party scene, it didn’t do much good for the original Petros, whose life was tragically cut short by a drunk driver.
The quickest way to get to Mykonos and Crete is by air. Although both islands can be reached from European hubs, Athens is by far the most favored way to get there. Flight times from the Greek capital are less than an hour, and you can spend a day or two exploring the “birthplace of democracy,” the fabled Parthenon and the incomparable National Archeological Museum.
If you’ve got more time and want to travel the famed “wine dark sea,” multiple ferry lines connect the islands. While the ferries are fast, comfortable and run on regular schedules, you might prefer to take a cruise ship, which will introduce you to a new island every few days, each one a fox or hedgehog for you to explore.
And when you’re ready to get started on your personal Greek Island Odyssey, just visit my contact page.
If you’re interested in exploring a different part of the Mediterranean, you might enjoy Malta
If you want beaches, but don’t want to travel overseas, check out California’s Pacific Escapes