“An increasingly pagan and hedonistic people (thank God!), we are learning finally that desert canyons are holier than our churches. Therefore let us behave accordingly. Benedicto: May your trails be crooked, winding, lonesome, dangerous, leading to the most amazing view."
-Edward Abbey, Desert Solitaire
Palm Springs
Where the Desert Forged Cool
Any big city worth its salt will have a small stable of travel writers to tell you how unique and authentic it is. And you can find thousands of sunset pictures from pretty much all of the world’s beaches on Instagram. But the desert is still a place for the weird ones. The burned-out hippie and the proto-hipster can all be found here, following the paths of the saints and sinners who found themselves out in the desert wilderness. The desert gives you the freedom to be yourself, and, in the process to discover what makes you who you are. The desert heat forges cool.
Palm Springs, located in the Southern California desert, about 2 hours east from Los Angeles, epitomizes the desert’s acceptance-chic. The town first made its bones attracting silent-era film stars who wanted to hold parties so wild that they couldn’t be contained by LA. From the 1930s to the 1960s, new residents built dozens of homes that pioneered Mid-Century Modern style. After the Rat Pack came and went, Palm Springs became one of the first towns in the US to embrace its LGBTQ+ citizens and visitors. And in 2018, the city elected the first all-LGBTQ city council in the United States.
Much of the desert doesn’t need a guidebook - it’s just there, for you to explore as you see fit. But Palm Springs offers a few curated delights that first-time or even fifth-time visitors should make sure to see. But first, a note of caution - like the ocean, the desert remains a wild place. Although most visitors stay perfectly safe, it’s important to prepare yourself. Carry and use more water and sunscreen than you think you will need. Wear lightweight, long-sleeve pants to protect your legs from cactus burrs if you’re hiking. Alcohol often feels stronger, and comes on quicker, in the dry air, so pace yourself accordingly. Don’t assume that your cell phone will work everywhere. The desert means freedom, and freedom must entail some risk.
Arts and Architecture - Ultimate Cool
The desert might appear barren, but it’s home to all sorts of fascinating lifeforms and cultural figures both influential and eclectic. Raymond Loewy, the patron saint of Mid-Century American design, built his glass-enclosed bachelor pad in Palm Springs as a living embodiment of his “Most Advanced Yet Acceptable (MAYA)” theory of cool. Loewy's vision created the colors and shapes of everything from Coca-Cola bottles to locomotives to the paint scheme on Air Force One. You can visit Loewy’s home and other paragons of Mid-Century Modern design by booking a tour or visiting Palm Springs during Modernism Week in October or February.
If you want to take a break from Palm Springs’ phenomenal art museum or noted international film festival in January, you’ll find a vibrant and exciting restaurant scene. While there’s plenty of cheap grub at farmers markets, delicious storefront Mexican joints and classic American diners, you’ll want to splurge for at least one meal at a fine dining restaurant run by an expat LA chef. My favorite is Workshop, a kitchen+bar combo featuring communal dining and new American food in Palm Spring’s uptown Design district.
Relax
If you’re going to the desert to reconnect with yourself, you’ll need to spend plenty of quality time with - yourself. Start by picking the right hotel. Palm Springs offers plenty of options from small bed-and-breakfasts to fancy resorts with golf courses, tennis courts and spas. My advice is to pick a spot with a great pool, or, even better, a great pool party.
Speaking of parties, Palm Springs is one of the country’s LGBTQ+ travel destinations. Hotels fill up fast at the end of March for “The Dinah,” a five-day “girl party” and music festival and at the end of April for “The White Party,” a boisterous gay dance festival. But there are plenty of LGBTQ+ friendly attractions throughout the year, from specialized resorts to bars and art galleries.
Explore, by land or sky
Even though Palm Springs is technically a city, you’ll find it much easier to get around with a car. Even though there’s a small walkable downtown and it’s possible to get around with ridesharing apps like Uber and Lyft, you’ll need a car if you really want to get out and explore the surrounding area. If you’re used to driving in a big city or suburban sprawl, you’ll love the deserts wide-open 2-lane roads. Remember not to drive too fast, because you’ll miss the quirky roadside attractions, farmers markets and knick-knack shops.
If you’re feeling adventurous, rent an SUV or Pickup to explore the desert’s dirt backroads. Make sure you stay on well-marked roads, as most rental insurance policies won’t cover off-road driving.
If you want a true off-road experience, drive an hour South to the Warner Springs Gliderport, where the father-and-son team at Skysailing will tow you aloft in their two-person glider. Don’t worry if you’ve never flown a plane before - you can take the controls under the pilot’s supervision or relax and watch the scenery go by. Without the sound of an engine, you’ll experience the desert the way an eagle or hawk does, gliding from thermals rising off the hot desert floor.
There are plenty of opportunities for hiking around Palm Springs, but nearby Joshua Tree National Park is one of the most spectacular jewels in the National Park System. Without a single focal point like the Grand Canyon or Yosemite’s Half-Dome, Joshua Tree is less crowded and more spread out. Pretty much anywhere you go in the park you’ll find the iconic Joshua Trees, fascinating rock formations and desert wilderness.
Unfortunately, you’ll need to drive all the way around the park to get to the main entrance, which is on the North Side, in the town of Joshua Tree. There is a Jeep trail that runs directly from Palm Springs into the heart of the park, but it requires some serious off-road chops. It’s worth it to spend a day or two in the town of Joshua Tree itself, where New Age hippies and Old West cowboy types live side by side in relative harmony.
If you’re enjoying the Old West vibe, book a horseback ride at a local stable. Besides feeling like you’re in a Western, horseback rides are the best way to spot wildlife in the desert. From your vantage point eight or nine feet in the air, you’ll easily be able to spot rabbits, coyotes, snakes and birds of prey. If you’ve never ridden a horse before, make sure you go with a (human) guide.
Getting There and When to Go:
Palm Spring Airport has direct flights to most major US hubs. It’s also easy to fly into one of the LA airports and drive to Palm Springs, but try to avoid getting out of LA during rush hour! Palm Springs is known as a winter destination, with January days in the 70s. Winter and early Spring also host the most events, so hotels are often booked. Summers get exceedingly hot, with average daytime highs of 108℉ in July. Fall is an excellent time to visit, as the weather is mild, but the town isn’t yet busy.
Once you’re ready to make your escape, don’t stress out too much about your flight or your plans. Just get in touch and we’ll make everything happen.