“If you are lucky enough to have lived in Paris as a young man, then wherever you go for the rest of your life it stays with you, for Paris is a moveable feast.”
“When good Americans die, they go to Paris.”
“We’ll always have Paris”
For almost my entire life, I’ve taken it for granted that, for a reasonable sum of money, I could take a cab to JFK airport, get on a plane, and be in Paris for breakfast. Even if I’ve never done it just that way, somehow knowing that I could made life much better. Paris is the ultimate fantasy travel destination. Every year, a small number of Japanese tourists are known to suffer from Paris Syndrome, a psychological reaction to discovering that the city of their dreams is a real place, with real people, and not entirely as they expected it.
For me, the real Paris, with its metro stations, traffic and little neighborhoods is every bit as romantic as the fantasy Paris of the Louvre, the Eiffel Tower and the Arc D’Triomphe. In the doldrums of the Covid-19 shutdown, I’ve been nurturing my own fantasy trip to Paris, timed for the holidays. Like every good fantasy, there’s just enough glimmer of hope that this dream can come true. Let me share it with you:
The Food and Drink:
The simplest joy of being in Paris is sitting in a classic café along a meandering side-street and watching the world go by. And with your single drink and a good book, you’ll never been shuttled out; simply sit and soak in the ambiance at your leisure.
Ambiance comes in many forms
If all the people-watching and the smell of freshly baked croissants stir up your appetite, there is a plethora of dining options in the capital, ranging from the humble bistro up to the dizzy heights of the 3-star Michelin restaurant. If you do opt for one of the more sophisticated establishments, be sure to make a reservation in advance, as they book up quick.
Much like the glorious variety of restaurant choice, the hotel selection enjoys much the same breadth with anything from the 5-star classic ‘Palace’ hotels to the utterly charming 3-star boutiques.
Looking for the best hotel for your trip? Get in touch and we’ll find the perfect hotel for you.
The Shopping:
If you weren’t already spoiled for choice with the number of artisan boutiques and commercial cathedrals, you will be during the holidays. Special markets and fairs spring up across the city in every neighborhood. But the most famous is the market along the world’s most beautiful avenue, the Champs-Élysées, which runs for a staggering 2km from Place de la Concorde to the iconic Arc de Triomphe. Throughout December, this thoroughfare, lined with resplendent architecture, is peppered with quaint artisan stalls satiating all your shopping desires.
On the Champs-Élysées, you will have the pleasure of zigzagging between independent stalls, trendy boutiques, and haute couture emporiums all along the very same stretch of road. And the holiday season is the very best time to take advantage of the huge sales - whether you’re after high-end designer or vintage threads.
If you’re looking for one-of-a-kind pieces or something a little out of the ordinary, Paris’s weekend flea markets are an absolute must.
The Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen at Porte de Clignancourt, located in the 18th arrondissement (district), covers seven hectares of trading-ground, hosting some 1,000 traders and over 5 million visitors a year, so you won’t come away disappointed - or empty-handed.
What began as merchant villages built by rag-and-bone men in 1885, has thrived and become the largest antique and second-hand market in the world.
Rue de Rosiers is the main street, off which runs Marché Malassis (furniture, vintage and restored items), Marché Dauphine (high-end furniture, pieces from the 17th and 18th centuries), Marché Biron (jewelry and graphic arts from 17th century), Marché Cambo (furniture, earthenware, artwork), and Marché Paul Bert Serpette (tribal art, archaeology, jewelry). For more unusual objects, posters, old weapons, bronzes, books or records, there’s Marché Jules Vallès. Or, if it’s trinkets and curiosities you’re after, Le Passage is the stall for you. These are just a handful of the varied array of markets ready to explore at Les Puces (as the locals call it).
Tips for Visiting Marché aux Puces de St-Ouen
Metro: Arrive at the market by the Garibaldi metro (line 13) or Porte de Clignancourt (line 4), rather than Porte de St-Ouen (the walk is longer) - find out more
Bus: Line 85 (Luxembourg ► Saint-Ouen Les Docs) = "Marché aux Puces" and "Paul Bert" stops - find out more
Getting Around
Paris is one of the world’s great walking cities. And we’ll find you quirky tours led by locals who can lead you through the city’s hidden gems, unbeknown to your average tourist, so that you can experience Paris like a true Parisian. On that note, it’s important to mention that Parisians have gotten a lot friendlier (following a government campaign), so their old reputation is no longer fully deserved.
If you prefer to zip around the city at faster pace, the metro and bus systems are easily accessible.
But above all, the most magical way to see Paris is to take a boat trip on the Seine at dusk: few twilight skylines compare.
One thing to remember when visiting Paris in the holiday season is to be aware of closings of major institutions like museums and galleries - you wouldn’t want to be disappointed.
If you want to know more about finding a guide in Paris, get in touch and we’ll pick the perfect one for you.
A Few of Maury’s Secrets
Best Chocolate Shop in Paris:
Jean-Charles Rochoux
A hotelier I highly trust recommended this exclusive chocolate boutique run by the eponymous Jean-Charles Rochoux himself. It’s in a gorgeous part of the VIth arrondissement. When you get there, say hi to Jean-Charles from me.
Best Armangac:
Castarède XO 20 years old Armagnac, 40%
This Armagnac is from the Castarède range at Armagnac Castarède, the oldest House in Armagnac (founded in 1832). Find out more about their Paris showroom here.
Best Cheese Shop
Laurent Dubois
This little cheese shop, named after its owner, has been awarded with the Meilleur Ouvrier de France (a unique and prestigious award for French artisans). As a testament to its craftsmanship, this cheese shop sees Parisians queuing round the block each weekend for a slice of their specialty fromage. Discover more for yourself here.
Got any more questions? Get in touch at my contact page!