With its beautiful bike trails, unbeatable people-watching, and art galleries that are open into the wee hours, Provincetown has something for everyone. The only thing you won’t find in this picturesque town on the tip of Cape Cod is chain stores. It’s strictly a mom-and-pop (or mom-and-mom, or pop-and-pop!) shop scene, and its friendliness and personality are sure to win you over faster than you can say “Dunkin’ Donuts.”
Don't forget to kayak too!
Getting There
Driving to "P-Town" from Boston is a gamble. Without traffic, you can make it in less than three hours, but on a weekend when the weather is fine, make sure you can sit next to your carmates for at least four or five hours. The ferry is more expensive ($44 each way), but it only takes 90 minutes, and your vacation begins as soon as you climb aboard. If that’s still too slow for you, hop on a plane at Logan Airport. Flights to Provincetown take 20 minutes, depart several times a day, and cost as little as $60 each way. I recommend spending some of the time you’ll save on a meal at the airport outpost of Legal Seafood. Order the lobster roll - it’s the best one around.
As your travel agent, I recommend you avoid the traffic.
Accommodations run from B&Bs to small hotels and motels. They fill up months in advance of the summer, with many people coming back to the same lodging year after year.
If you're planning a trip over a holiday weekend, expect company!
Out and About
Provincetown is known as an LGBTQ vacation destination, and you’re likely to see colorful displays of pride all over town. The only exception (to the colorfulness, not the pride!) is during the annual White Party, which takes place on Labor Day Weekend. Come dressed in white, and wear your favorite gender expression.
If you're traveling to P-Town over Labor Day, wear white!
While you’re people-watching, keep your eyes peeled for one of P-Town’s local celebrities. Film director John Waters, Pulitzer Prize-winning author Michael Cunningham, and “Glee” co-creator Ryan Murphy all own homes here.
John Waters enjoys the Cape Cod Bay waters
It’s not just 21st century celebs who flock to Provincetown. The beauty of the Cape Cod National Seashore has been drawing artists here since the early 1900s. For a broad picture of the town’s artistic heritage, check out the lovely Provincetown Art Association & Museum. It’s home to more than 3,000 works of art by everyone from Edward Hopper to Man Ray, and admission is free on Fridays.
Of course, you can also just pop in and out of P-town’s many galleries. This is such a popular pastime that the town has made it official, hosting with the Friday night Gallery Stroll, when all the art galleries have open houses. They display new artists alongside well-established favorites, and you can wander through them at your leisure.
I Like to Ride My Bicycle
Whether you’re a drag Queen fan, an avid cyclist, or just like to go for the occasional scenic ride, consider spending some of your trip on a bicycle. The Province Lands Bike Trail is a 5.45 mile loop with short spurs to two beaches, and takes you through sand dunes, cranberry bogs, and shady pine forests. It’s best-suited to intermediate riders, but there are plenty of rides for beginners and casual cyclists to enjoy too. No matter your ability level, you’ll find it much easier to ride (and park!) a bike in Provincetown than to shepherd a car around.
If you're going to drive, you should at least carpool.
The Fast Ferry allows bikes on board for an extra $8 each way (be sure to mention your 2-wheeled companion when you book your tickets), or you can rent one from a local shop by the hour, day, or week.
On foot, but still want to take in the scenery? Try the Atlantic White Cedar Swamp Trail. This 1.2 mile hike will take you about an hour, and takes you through the forest, along a boardwalk that winds through the swamp, and along a soft, sandy road. Seasonal restrooms are available.
For a less athletic outing, try clamming. It’s as simple wading out into water and picking a clam out of the sand, but you’ll need a shellfishing permit to do so legally. They’re $15 for residents, $50 for visitors, and you can get them at Town Hall. While you’re there, get a permit for a beach fire. It's free, but be sure to plan ahead - you'll need to reserve a permit three days in advance, and only a limited number are available for each day.
If you can walk, you can clam.
Still not tired? Check out Spiritus Pizza. It’s the place to go at 1AM when all the bars close.
When to Go
Summer is high season at the Cape. Especially on weekends, expect lots of folks ready to play and party. Holiday weekends book especially quickly, so make sure to arrange accommodations in advance. This is the best time of year to go to enjoy the beaches and make new friends.
If you’d like a little peace, solitude and relief for your wallet, consider booking a stay in the Fall. Even after the crowds leave, the water stays warm enough to swim well into October. With warm days and cool nights, the Cape makes a great companion to a Fall weekend getaway to Boston.
If you want a lot of peace and solitude, consider a Winter weekend. Provincetown’s January population is only 3,000 hardy souls. Meanwhile, a summer weekend crowd easily tops 60,000. Many hotels and businesses will be closed, but those that are open will be welcoming and inexpensive.
Spring starts slow and then comes on very suddenly. Temperatures often stay below freezing even in April. By Memorial Day, the good weather and warm water starts to return, but so do the crowds. If you watch the weather, you can often snag a last-minute getaway at bargain prices during this time of year.
You can get a fresh lobster roll any time of year - and you won't have to wait in line!